Marc In North Korea: Through The Looking Glass

Pyongyang Flower Show

2007-05-07T15:28:00.000-07:00

On Kim Il Sung's birthday - the North Korean equivalent of Christmas Day - we attended a special flower exhibition on the two national flowers of DPRK: the Kimilsungia and the Kimjongilia. The flower exhibition was beautiful. There were many ornate and complicated displays of the two national flowers in different 'scenes'. For example, one scene was a reunified Korea, another scene was Kim Il Sung's childhood home, and another scene glorified the two Kims. The scenes were remarkable for their level of sophistication and beauty.

The Kimilsungia is named after the Great Leader, Kim Il Sung. The Kimilsungia is a purple orchid. The name Kimilsungia was officially given to the purple orchid by the President of Indonesia. Kim Il Sung travelled to Indonesia for a state visit. His counterpart, Sukarno (the first President of Indonesia) took Kim Il Sung on a tour of the Bogor Botanical Garden where the North Korean leader admired the orchid. Sukarno honoured Kim Il Sung with the name of this orchid because, apparently, Kim Il Sung was entitled to such a great honour since he had done so much for humankind.

Me and some Kim Il Sung propaganda.

Kimilsungia flower shows are held every year in Pyongyang. The few embassies of foreign countries in North Korea - including Russia, China, and Sweden - usually present their own special bouquet of the flower to the exhibition. The North Korean government says that Kim Il Sung's peerless character is "fully reflected in the immortal flower" which is "blooming everywhere on the five continents".

The Kimjongilia is named after the Dear Leader, Kim Jong Il. The Kimjongilia is a red begonia. The begonia was cultivated by Japanese botanist, Motoderu Kamo, who especially named it after the Dear Leader to commemorate his 46ths birthday in 1988. The begonia supposedly represents the Juche Idea and therefore symbolizes wisdom, love, justice, and peace. It is designed to bloom every year on Kim Jong-il's February 16 birthday.

Emily stopping to smell the Kimjongilias.

Soiree for Kim Il Sung’s Birthday

2007-05-07T15:10:00.000-07:00

Visiting Kim Il Sung’s embalmed body was not the only ‘special’ event of the North Korean national holiday of 15 April (Kim Il Sung’s birthday). There was a soiree dance that night in Kim Il Sung Square (the third largest square in the world). The soiree was another unbelievable experience, something that you are unlikely to see elsewhere in the world. The soiree is like a mini-Mass Games involving over 20 000 performers moving in perfect unison. The performers perform a mass traditional dance, dressed in traditional Korean costumes and uniforms. The entire square – along with some of the surrounding streets – is packed with the performers moving as one. There are building-size balloons with designs of the North Korean flag and Communist symbols – notably the hammer, sickle, paint brush symbol – flying over the square. A massive fireworks display explodes overheard, set off from the Taedong River behind the square. The Juche Tower, also seen from behind the square, is lit up with its flame glowing a deep red-orange, as though it were really lit by fire.

Photo from my friend and fellow traveller, G.C.

The audience was also impressive. We sat in the special concrete façade where we see Kim Jong Il sitting whilst watching military parades. The audience is segregated, with Pyongyang’s elite sitting stiffly in one corner, and the foreigners and people sitting below. The left side of the façade was reserved entirely for the military. The top military brass attended the soiree, in full uniform, sitting silently and seriously in their special section. The sight of the military section was really intimidating. It resembled some audience from Nazi Germany. The North Korean state television was also in attendance, again filming live the night’s festivities. And, again, the cameramen were dressed in military-style uniform, using personal cameras and studio cameras from the 1940s and 1950s.

At one point during the soiree, the foreigners were allowed to enter the mass of performers and actually join in on the dancing. Chrys, Emily, Guillaume, Giuseppe, Raul, and I lost ourselves in the crowd and got right in on the dancing. Chrys and Emily were immediately singled out and given willing North Korean dancers. Guillaume and Giuseppe also quickly found partners; I’m surprised Giuseppe didn’t ask one of the ladies to marry him by the end of the night. It was Chrys, though, who actually got asked out on a date in North Korea! By a North Korean man! Asked out on a blind date in North Korea, of all places! It was unreal, like something from a crazy movie! Her dancing partner asked her to go for a drink after the soiree. She had to unfortunately decline as we are foreigners, are not allowed to deviate from our itinerary, and even if we could deviate, our guides and entire group would have had to chaperon.

I was so awed by the up-close performance that I wandered around the performers, taking it all in. I also spent a lot of time near the centre of the square where there was serious dancing with acrobats taking place. It was there I saw the most gorgeous North Korean man, tall, dark, and built, wearing a cool traditional costume. He noticed me too, obviously liking a foreigner paying attention. At any rate, I joined in on one dance. My dancing partner must have thought I was such a dumb foreigner, I could barely follow the moves she was trying to show me. Our cameraman caught it all on film; I look ridiculous.

The following pictures are from Kim Il Sung Square - the 3rd largest in the world - the afternoon of the soiree performance. The dancers are practicing and preparing for the event.

Mass Games, otherwise known as Arirang

2007-05-05T22:23:00.000-07:00

I attened North Korea's Mass Games, called Arirang. This is truly a once-in-a-lifetime experience; Mass Games are performed only in North Korea. Arirang is held in Pyongyang’s May Day Stadium, the largest stadium in the world, seating over 150 000 spectators. The May Day Stadium is a futuristic-looking venue. The May Day Stadium is a cavernous round building, with massive archways laid over the sides of the building. The May Day Stadium consequently resembles a weird alien spaceship. It is really quite interesting to look at.

We attended the opening ceremony of Arirang. Kim Jong Il usually attends the opening ceremony, but for some reason this year he didn’t make it. As a result of his absence, we were allowed to take pictures of the Games. A major ranking Party member gave a speech at the start of the games over loudspeakers echoing throughout the stadium. There were many high ranking North Koreans in attendance that night, we sat near their section. All of the men dressed in conservative suits and the women in traditional Korean dress. That being said, the rest of the audience was all smartly dressed. This was not your typical stadium-event, it was a real fancy show and people treated it seriously like they were at an upscale theatre.

The Mass Games is a spectacular extravaganza. Over 80 000 performers participate in Arirang, in a highly regimented show that emphasizes group dynamics rather than individual prowess. Each participant knows that the smallest mistake will ruin the group’s performance; they therefore surrender to the group. In this sense they become true Communists. Indeed, Mass Games is an exercise in ideological training. These performers move in perfect unison, as though they are one image.

Some of these pics are from my friend's collection, Giuseppe Cipriani (G.C.).

G.C.

G.C.

Former U.S. Secretary of State, Madeleine Albright, attended a Mass Games performance in 2000 stated that only a Communist dictator could get over 80 000 people to move together in perfect unison.

G.C.

The backdrop of the Mass Games is a huge mosaic that covers an entire side of the stadium. The backdrop details North Korea’s Socialist achievements and the country’s revolutionary history and spirit. Images of Kim Il Sung and Kim Jong Il must also be portrayed with total devotion. The North Koreans call it the biggest picture in the world. The backdrop works by card-turners occupying the seats opposite the audience. Over 12 000 school children are used as card-turners. Each chosen school practices daily until perfection is achieved.

The following pictures show one small section of the mosaic. The first shows the students looking up from behind their placards; the second shows them hiding behind them.

G.C.

G.C.

The following show the warm-up before the actual performance. The students are warming-up by chating out their school names (sounding more like military orders being screamed, very intimidating) and changing their placards in separate sections and groups at various times. The warm-up was a simple taste of what was to come during the performance.

The 2007 Mass Games portrayed the greatness of North Korea, the Juche Idea, Kim Il Sung, the North Korean people, and the hope for national reconciliation with South Korea (a recurring theme throughout North Korea). Apparently this year the organizers toned down the anti-American and anti-Japanese sentiments and downplayed the military aspects of the performance. But the Mass Games is already highly militarized; if it weren’t for the colourful outfits and scenes, it could easily have been a military extravaganza. This is similar to much of North Korean society, a society that considers itself still in wartime. The war with South Korea and the U.S.A. never officially ended, there was only a ceasefire; so the North Koreans still consider themselves at war.

G.C.

The stadium is lit up in colourful electronic lights, blaring and flashing everywhere. The open roof the stadium has numerous light displays hanging from its centre, held in place by more multi-coloured lights. This gives the illusion that there is an actual dome covering the stadium. Above the backdrop is a giant electronic torch atop of the building; it is ‘lit’ during the performance by a bright white star. Each side of the backdrop has a multi-leveled manicured garden covered in colourful lights and the years of Juche in block numbers: 1912 (Juche 1; Kim Il Sung’s birth year) on the left side; 2007 (Juche 95) on the right side.

Because it was the opening ceremony, the Mass Games was being filmed live by North Korean state television. Watching the state television at work was interesting in and of itself. In various sections throughout the stadium were the state television studio cameras catching the performance. The studio cameras were something out of 1950s Soviet Union. They were clunky, cumbersome, ancient cameras that were so big and long and old that I was shocked they were in use. Giant, and rusty, spotlights were slightly above the camera sections. It honestly looked like a movie set of a movie studio in the 1950s. Further, there were cameramen moving throughout the audience capturing the audiences reactions. The cameraman were dressed in military uniform, and were holding 1940s cameras that you hold on your shoulder and make those ‘click, click, clicking’ sounds as the film reel rolls. Behind the cameramen were other men carrying giant camera-lights to light the camera’s view. It honestly looked like something out of 1940s Nazi Germany. It was fascinating, but eerie.

We were all blown away by the Mass Games. Nicole admitted that, as a cynical individual, she herself was awed by the performance. We have never seen anything like it before; even an Olympics opening ceremony cannot compare to this spectacle.

The group performances were stunning; I have no idea how they would choreograph or prepare so perfectly. It is unbelievable to see tens of thousands of people moving in perfect unison. The backdrop was equally as impressive. The pictures formed were detailed, and some even ‘moved’. Because of its precision and detail, the backdrop looked like it could have been an electronic screen. Even the practice before the start of the Games was incredible. We arrived about half-an-hour before it began and were able to watch the card-turners practice their stuff. The card-turners had a whole special pre-show, creating images and changing the cards in groups all at different times. This created a jaw-dropping illusion of the opposite wall moving to threatening, militaristic shouts by the card-turners. It sounded like a military parade or inspection.

G.C.

G.C.

G.C.

G.C.

G.C.

G.C.

G.C.

Most of us attended Mass Games twice. Both nights the world’s largest stadium was packed full of spectators. On the second night, Kirsty and I were joking about what we would be in Arirang if such a thing were held in our countries. The most hilarious comment was that about the ‘egg’ characters. There is a scene in Arirang that celebrates the agricultural greatness and progress of North Korea and features dancers dressed in animal costumes, food costumes, and farmer costumes. Anyway, Kirsty thought it would be humiliating if you were asked what you did in Mass Games and if your response was ‘oh, I was an egg’. Especially when there are spectacular, colourful costumes, gowns, and uniforms that people wear, and then there are those stuck being eggs in the agricultural scene. Humiliating.

Korean Film Studios

2007-05-05T18:57:00.000-07:00

The Korean Film Studios are where all North Korean movies and television shows are created, acted, produced, and disseminated. The Korean Film Studios - along with all other industries - is centrally controlled and monopolised by the state. Thus, the government vets and monitors all scripts, actors, directors, producers, etc. The government determines what movies and t.v. shows are acceptable and whether or not they closely adhere to principles outlined by the artform Socialist Realism. There are three main studios, they are (i) military features, (ii) documentaries, and (iii) feature films. The Korean Film Studios had large contingents of North Korean military units marching around the lots, some to be used in military features, others to guard the place. But that is not an odd sight in North Korea: the miltary are located everywhere. There are military units marching through the streets of Pyongyang, Kaesong, small villages, farms, and the Korean Film Studios.

We were given permission to tour the feature films studio. We were guided along the various different sets of the feature films, including sets for 1930s-1940s Japan, early-1900s China, ancient Korean villages, and Europe. Although each set had massive buildings and developed streets, they were still rather shoddy. Each set looked as though it was neglected and had not been renovated or updated in years. The European set looked like old gingerbread houses. Apparently they were supposed to represent Switzerland and Austria. They did sort of resemble a skewed version of a dilapitated fake Switzerland. Nevertheless, the Koran Film Studios guide - an older, distinguished man with grey hair - informed us that the North Korean studios are far better than any in the U.S.A. Apparently all American film studios pale in comparison to the advanced and sophisticated studios in DPRK. An interesting delusion

We were taken to the ancient Korean set, with replicas of ancient Korean palaces, pagodas, and homes. A few of us were permitted to dress up in the set's costumes of ancient Korean characters. This was hilarious. We all enjoyed this part of the Korea Film Studios tour the most because we got to play dress-up like kids.

Chrys was dressed as a Korean princess, as was Kadja and Kirsty. The gowns were beautiful with bright colours including pink, red, green, purple, and blue and were decked out with various designs made of jewels. The princesses also wore, what looked like, little pillbox hats decorated with intricate desings made from multi-coloured beads. Sean was dressed as a Korean soldier/knight. He looked hilarious. He had a long blue cloak and a gold helmut, with long red sides protecting the sides of his neck, and topped by a red tassle.

I was dressed as a Korean king. Everyone told me the costume suited me! Haha. I was put in a king's long-top (that went down to the knees) coloured a deep red. It had a gold crest of a dragon on the front. There was a special apron, which was a sign of royalty. It was red with designs of doves and other royal symbols and had a long fringe on its bottom. I had a Korean king's crown placed on my head. This crown is nothing like a stereotypical European crown. It was a massive block-like creation that wrapped around my head, covering my hair, and was decorated with vertical lines of coloured jewels and had a chop-stick-like stick cutting through its centre. It was impressive to look at, and heavy to wear. I was in my cowboy boots, so to see an ancient Korean king in cowboy boots was something unique!

U.S.S. Pueblo

2007-05-05T14:26:00.000-07:00

The U.S.S. Pueblo is an American naval ship that was captured by the North Koreans in 1968. This capture was a major international event, especially within the context of the Cold War and epic struggle between Communist and Capitalist forces. During that time, much of the West - particularly the U.S.A. - and the Soviet Empire/Communist world were engaged in a Cold War for global domination. The capture of the American ship by Communist North Korea's navy was shocking to the West but a proud and celebrated moment for the Communist East. The capture of the Pueblo is commonly referred to as the Pueblo Incident, or alternatively, the Pueblo Crisis.

The Pueblo Incident occurred in January 1968. The North Koreans claimed that the American ship had illegally entered North Korean waters for espionage purposes; the Americans claimed that the ship was miles outside the North Korean territorial waters for research purposes. North Korean torpedo boats, subchaser, and figher jets confronted the Pueblo. The Pueblo attempted to esacpe the North Korean onslaught. The American ship was attacked and one American killed. The U.S.S. Pueblo was outnumbered and not ready for battle (their weaponry was stored deep in the recesses of the ship), and thus capitulated to the North Koreans. Today, the North Koreans have drawn thick red circles around the huge holes made by their bullets and bombs that hit the ship during the attack.

The American naval officers - over 80 of them - were sent to two POW camps. At times they were allegedly beaten, tortured, and starved. This treatment allegedly worsened after the Americans gave North Korean soliders 'the finger' in staged propaganda pictures. At first, the North Koreans were not familiar with this North American insult, but later learned of it after the publication of the photos. The Americans were also threatened with execution. The North Koreans demanded apologies from them, as well as their 'true' reasons and intentions for being in DPRK's territory. The North Koreans wanted a 'confession' about American spying on DPRK. The North Korean government also demanded that Washington officially and publicly apologize for the Incident. If these conditions were met, the men would eventually be released.

President Lyndon Johnson's administration reluctantly apologized to North Korea for the Incident, 11 months after it transpired. Washington wrote an official admission of spying on DPRK, and a written assurance that America would not spy on DPRK in the future. The captives also officially apologized for their actions. Having met the outlined conditions, North Korea decided to release the crew members. In December, the crew members were taken to the DMZ and made to cross the infamous 'Bridge of No Return' to South Korea. Immediately upon their arrival in South Korea, the U.S. retracted its apology, admission, and assurance. Concurrently, the North Koreans blanked out the paragraph above the signature which read: "and this hereby receipts for 82 crewmen and one dead body".

Today, the U.S.S. Pueblo remains a commissioned ship of the U.S. navy. The ship was never repatriated to the U.S. The ship remains a sore spot between already poor and tense relations between the two enemy countries. Kim Jong Il has ordered that the ship be used for propaganda purposes to promote anti-Americanism and demonstrate North Korean military strength. Washington claims that the return of the still-commissioned American navy ship is a priority for the Americans. The U.S.S. Pueblo is a major tourist attraction in Pyongyang. The American ship is also a source of pride to the North Koreans. It represents their military superiority over the U.S. and also symbolizes their revolutionary spirit and success over Imperialist forces. The ship is therefore a national symbol of independence and sovereignty.

We boarded the U.S.S. Pueblo on a particularly cold North Korean afternoon. The sky was very dark, and the Taedong River was somewhat restless. Boarding the naval ship was like stepping back in time. The ship is exactly how it was when it was captured. The insides - the mess hall, the bunks, the lockers, the clunky computers, the signs - are exactly how they were like in the 1960s. I felt as though I were in a time-warp. I was creeped out; the ship felt as though it were haunted. I wouldnt want to be on it by myself. So I skipped out of the majority of the tour and chatted to one of our guides - Ong-Nim - and Simon (one of Koryo Tour's operators) on the decks of the ship. I braved the icy winds and dark skies, rather than stay long in an old haunted military ship.

Interestinly, Ong-Nim was talking about her worries for her next tour group in a few weeks. The upcoming group was a small number of Americans coming in for their 2 night allowance for the Mass Games season (Americans can only enter DPRK for 2 nights during Mass Games times: April and August-October). Simon and I told her not to worry. Despite any misgivings about the American government, the American people are good people, friendly, fun, and warm who do not desire war. I dont think Ong-Nim was convinced.

There are a few North Korean navy personnel and officers on the ship. Like everything else we did whilst in DPRK, we had a specially guided tour. Our guide was a young navy woman, in full naval uniform, and bright red lipstick.

We had to watch a 15 minute propaganda video on the Pueblo Incident - from the North Korean viewpoint - with its kitchsy music, colourful language denigrating the "brazen-faced American Imperialists", and old footage of negotiations of that time. We were taken on a tour of all areas of the ship, including the secret communications room full of old computers, encryption machines, and radio equipment, all of which is partially disassembled from North Korean technical inspections.

It is rumoured that the Soviet Union wanted North Korea to take the ship in order to get their hands on some American military technology.

It was an interesting tour and a historic place to visit. But I was happy to disembark from the ship; like so much else in DPRK, it creeped me out. To see a 1960s American naval ship docked along the pleasant banks of the Taedong River is also something very strange. If the ship is ever repatriated to the U.S., I'll be one of the rare few to have toured it whilst still in the hands of the North Koreans.

Arch of Triumph

2007-05-05T13:24:00.000-07:00

The Arch of Triump is one of Pyongyang's main attractions. The Arch of Triump is a stunning monument of intricate architectural design. The Arch of Triump is a massive building that demands respect and attention. The Arch is one of the main monuments that remains totally lit-up at night (until around 10PM of course when almost all lights go out) whilst the surrounding Socialist apartment complexes are in darkness or with a few dull lights on. Because of this intense lighting at night, the Arch is made to look even more impressive. That being said, the Arch is an impressive piece of propoganda that contributes to the idolatry and myths surrounding the Kim dynasty.

The following is a picture from our tour bus approaching the Arch of Triumph. Imagine this monument lit-up at night. It is made even more impressive by the powerful lights surrounded by the darkness of night.

The Arch of Triumph is larger than its famous Parisian counterpart, the Arc de Triomphe. North Korea's Arch stands 60m high; France's Arc stands only 51m high. North Korea's arch honours Kim Il Sung's revolution against the Japanese in the early 20th century. Up until the mid-20th century, Korea was a colony of Japan. In 1945, the Japanese were driven out of Korea. Kim Il Sung is given significant credit for defeating Japanese colonial rule, which is one of the fundamental reasons for the unconditional devotion and respect heaped upon him and his family. To commemorate Kim Il Sung's heroic anti-colonial revolution - as well as the revolutionary spirit of North Korea in general - the Arch of Triumph was constructed to remind North Koreans and the world of the power of North Korea.

The Arch was one of the first monuments that we saw when we arrived in North Korea on that cold, dark, rainy night. Once we entered Pyongyang from the empty international airport, we passed a few lit-up Communist monuments along the blacked-out streets of the capital. The Arch was one of them. The lights made it seem as though the sun itself was shining down specially on the Arch, as though the sun was honouring North Korea's revolutionary spirit. The North Koreans would say that the sun does indeed shine down on North Korea because Kim Il Sung is the sun and now that he is part of the heavens, he has turned into the sun itself. So the 'sun' shines down on the Arch until around 10PM at night when that too must succumb to the rolling blackouts of Pyongyang. I was amazed at the Arch, it was a glorious building made all the more beautiful by the lights in the midst of darkness and rain. It was like a rose amongst many thorns.

Party Foundation Monument, my favourite Communist monument

2007-05-03T23:04:00.000-07:00

The Party Foundation Monument was an impressive piece of architecture. As its name states, this is a monument dedicated to the Communist Party and Socialist principles of North Korea. This was the most memorable monument and image of North Korea.

The monument is a circular platform with Communist slogans and friezes of the North Korean 'worker'. The images are life-like.

Dominating the structure are three life-like giant hands, each 50m high. One hand is holding a hammer, a paintbrush, and a sickle, each representing the worker, intellectual, and farmer respectively, all uniting for Communism.

The hammer, representing the worker.

The paintbrush, representing the intellectual.

The sickle, representing the farmer.

Chrys, Guillaume, Tim, Giuseppe, and I formed a Socialist Realism pose in front of the Party Foundation Monument. We were all, tongue-in-cheek, devoted to Communism ourselves. That being said, we are all fans of Socialist Realism and therefore wanted to have our own propaganda photograph.

Mansudae (or Mansu Hill), bowing to Kim Il Sung

2007-05-03T22:37:00.000-07:00

We had to pay respects to all statues of the Great Leader. The main statue of Kim Il Sung is located in downtown Pyongyang on a steep hill. The statue is situated on the hilltop in a square-like setting. There is a large stone multi-level platform with sweeping views of Pyongyang. On both sides of the statue are grand statues consisting of North Korean military soldiers going to battle for Kim Il Sung and DPRK. There are also many gardens and cherry blossom trees on the hill.

The group of us had to approach the statue as one group and then stand in a uniform line in front of it. Some of us were designated to lay flowers at the base of the statue. Kirsty, Guillaume, Giuseppe, Tim, and Margaret were the ones given the honour. Then we all had to bow in unison.

The following is a picture of my tour April 2007 tour group

Once the respectful formalities were out of the way, we were allowed to walk around the statue and platform and take pictures. We had a group picture taken at the base of the statue. We were allowed to take pictures of the statue, but with restrictions. We could only take pictures of the full statue, not specific features of it. We could not take pictures of the statue from behind.

Mansudae was busy the day we paid our respects. It was the 15 April holiday weekend, so countless North Koreans were paying their respects to their Great Leader. The hill was actually crowded. The North Koreans were all dressed in their finest garments, with men in either sharp suits or military uniforms, women in traditional Korean dress or dress-suits, and the children wearing mini-versions of their parents’ attire. We had to bow as a formality; the North Koreans were bowing out of deep respect and reverence.

Kim Il Sung's Embalmed Body

2007-05-03T22:27:00.000-07:00

Paying respects to Kim Il Sung’s embalmed body was by far one of the most weird and memorable experiences of my life.

15 April is a major national holiday in North Korea. It is the birthday of the Great Leader and Eternal President Kim Il Sung. This holiday is the North Korean equivalent of Christmas. It is a highly revered and civically holy day, a day of great respect and ultimate devotion to Kim Il Sung specifically and the North Korean nation generally.

I was lucky to be able to experience such an important day for North Koreans. This day was an incredible opportunity to witness and join in on the celebrations for this auspicious day. The entire day was full of memorable events, but by far the most shocking and creepy was the visit to Kim Il Sung’s body.

Kim Il Sung’s embalmed body is on display in the Kumsusan Memorial Palace on the outskirts of Pyongyang. The word Palace does not do justice to the grandness and awesome presence of this building-monument. It is truly a palace of epic proportions. It is an intimidating building, designed in a megalomaniac Communist-fascist fashion. In other words, it is needlessly big, with grand arched hallways stretching forever, massive rooms with glorious murals and chandeliers, and grand marble staircases. Outside of the palace are carefully manicured gardens, rivers, and a large Communist-type square in front of the Palace with a floor-size portrait of Kim Il Sung. It was truly an impressive sight and place to visit.

But it was the carefully choreographed process of going to see and pay respects to Kim Il Sung’s body that left the real lasting impression on us all. It was made into such an affair that one would think they were being presented to the Pope or Queen of England. Ironically, there is probably nowhere near the amount of hoopla to be presented to those dignitaries as there is to this dead body.

The whole process took half of the day. It’s good we did it early in the morning. We all had to walk in one straight line, like a funeral procession, throughout the entire Palace. Some corridors were so long that there were special moving-runways like you see in airport terminals to speed up the walks. We had to pass through strict security, where we went through x-ray screens and military guards swiped us down. We also had to pass through a special tunnel where there was a moving rubber-floor with rollers underneath that would clean the bottom or our footwear! Then there was an actual wind tunnel with fans built in the walls, floor, and ceiling, where all the dust and dirt would be blown off of us. Our hair was windswept afterwards, I felt bad for the North Korean women who had their hair specially styled for this occasion.

We finally approached yet another grand hallway, but this hallway was different. This hallway had a giant doorway with thick wooden doors swung open. The ceiling and the wall-length doors must have been at least 30 feet high. There was a red-tinged light emanating from the doorway and sad Socialist Realism music loudly playing, bellowing through the hallway. We were instructed to form lines of four people in four columns. Each line was then marched through the doorway where a massive gold statue of Kim Il Sung greeted us, all lit up with high-voltage bulbs and different coloured lighting. We had to march respectfully to the centre of the room and bow in unison in front of the statue. Once we finished our bow, we then turned to our right to face another grand entranceway, this one leading to Kim Il Sung himself.

Kim Il Sung’s room was by far the largest room in a Palace in which each room and hallway outdid each other in size and grandeur. This room was huge. The ceilings, you almost couldn’t see them, they must have been upwards of 60 feet high. There were grand columns in the room. There was soft mournful Socialist Realism music playing. The room was in virtual darkness except for the lights shining on the glass enclosure displaying the body.

Kim Il Sung’s body was displayed in the glass enclosure, which was elevated by a red-draped platform and protected by purple velvet rope. The room had military guards in all four corners, beside each column, and at the four ends of the display. We were marched into the room and order again to go in lines of four. Then each line of four would move as a uniform unit towards Kim Il Sung’s left side. We would bow gracefully and respectfully for a few long seconds. Then we would march to his feet, and bow again. Then we would march to Kim Il Sung’s right side, and bow again. Next, we would walk past the head of the body and out of the dark room into another arched corridor. The experience was surreal.

We were sent down another arched hallway to a trophy room displaying all of Kim Il Sung’s awards and accolades he received in North Korea and abroad. There were special medals, gifts, and diplomas from across Africa, Asia, and Europe. There were conspicuously no awards from North America. There were also framed pictures of Kim Il Sung and international leaders decorating the walls of the trophy room. The pictures featured the Great Leader with controversial leaders and former Communist stalwarts, including Zimbabwe’s Robert Mugabe, Palestine’s Yasser Arafat, and many others. We were led through a number of similar trophy rooms and display rooms of Kim Il Sung’s greatness. Then we were led back through the Palace to the entrance. It took forever to get back, but not as long as getting to the body since we didn’t have to do any of the pomp or circumstance exiting the building.

The North Koreans truly revere and love Kim Il Sung. Kim Il Sung is like their very own god. It is unsettling how much they adore and worship this dead man. I can only imagine the respect they conferred upon him while still alive.

I asked the guides how they felt about the Kims. The impression I got was that they respected Kim Jong Il, but could take him or leave him. But I could tell how they unconditionally worship Kim Il Sung. Kim Il Sung is their true and only leader, they still believe he runs the country and will eternally watch over them.

I was at a loss for words when they sincerely stated that they were shocked when he died. They could not believe he passed away. They thought he would never die, that he would live forever. You could see the hurt in their eyes as they freely admitted this. These are smart, educated people, and yet they honestly believed that this man had eternal life. They claimed that, to this day, they still can’t believe that Kim Il Sung is gone. I remember watching some of the footage of Kim Il Sung’s funeral way back in 1994 when it was covered by the international press (the first time the international press was allowed into DPRK). The scenes were of uncontrollable mass hysteria. It was scary. After talking to North Koreans and questioning their belief in Kim Il Sung, I now know that those images weren’t choreographed by the government for propaganda purposes.

National Library of North Korea

2007-05-03T15:55:00.000-07:00

The National Library of North Korea - referred to as the Grand People's Study House - was exceptionally beautiful. The Grand People's Study House is by far the most gorgeous piece of architecture in North Korea. I was mesmerized by its beauty. The National Library's architecture is that of an ancient Korean palace, with sweeping staircases, marble columns, epic-sized lobbies and rooms, and striking green pagoda-style roofs (the same green as the Canadian Parliament's roofs). It is stunning to look at, I never tired of seeing it or admiring it.

The Grand People's Study House is located in the centre of Pyongyang. The building is one of the capital's most enduring symbols. The building faces Kim Il Sung Square and the Juche Tower, as well as the peaceful Fountain Park.

We had an informative tour of the National Library, guided by one of the library's and country's national librarians. The entrance to the National Library hosts a grand lobby lit by Soviet-retro lights and holds a giant statue of Kim Il Sung. Upon entering the building, every patron pays their respects to Kim Il Sung for giving the North Korean people the gift of education and this library.

The national librarians are, of course, located in the National Library. There are numerous national librarians designated by discipline. For example, there is a national librarian for chemistry, a national librarian for history, a national librarian for engineering, a national librarian for the Juche ideology, and so on. There is a President of the National Library who acts as a central manager of the national librarians as well as all librarians across the country. Our guide was an interesting older gentlemen who provided an excellent overview of both the National Library and North Korea's library system in general.

The following is a picture of the national librarian who conducted our tour. He was engaging and interesting. In the background is a reference librarian.

The National Library holds over 30 million books from North Korea and all over the world. There are huge sections of the collection from foreign countries, even the United States. In fact, there is some sort of Asian-North Korean friendship society based in California that donates books to North Korea's National Library. The borrowing system works the same way as it does here: you borrow a book and must return it within a certain amount of time. If a library book is late, you will get a notice to return it as soon as possible.

The collection is up-to-date and has information on cutting-edge technologies and sciences. The collections, however, are closed stacks. There is an electronic catalogue which everyone must use in order to locate books. The electronic catalogue is as comprehensive and advanced as our own in the West. But since the stacks are closed, this means that when someone wants a book, they must request it to a librarian who will then retrieve the book from the collections.

The following is the librarian who fills out your request for a book; behind her is the automatic trolley book dispenser that delivers the book once retrieved from the closed stacks.

In other words, a patron cannot simply browse the stacks, it must be done by a librarian. A librarian puts the request in to the stackers in the closed stacks, who retrieve the book, and then send it out via the automatic trolley book dispenser. This is the same closed concept that most Western academic libraries had until the 1990s.

Many students frequent the library to study or conduct research. Apparently the study of the Juche ideology is a popular subject amongst patrons. The library also has many reference librarians to help with general and specific inquiries from patrons. The library also hosts many special courses on various topics including mechanical classes, painting classes, and so on. The library is also known for its foreign-language courses, which are extremely popular. We were able to drop in on a Japanese language class the afternoon we toured the library. The following pictures are from the foreign language classroom.

It is estimated that more than 120 000 people visit the library each day. Indeed, the National Library is a major source of social and community activity in Pyongyang. Ironically, North Korea's National Library serves a special social role that the West's libraries are desperately trying to revive.

The following are pictures of me touring one of the many study rooms and lecture halls.

The National Library also has many computer rooms with modern computers. The computers are very popular amongst library patrons. North Korea does not have any access to the internet. There are no links, no contacts, no hidden ways in which one can access the worldwide web. But there is a national INTRAnet, which functions as the country's internet. This is another way to maintain total control and prevent any foreign or outside influence from seeping into North Korea.

The following is a picture of patrons surfing the North Korean web.

The national intranet is surprisingly quite advanced. We toured one of the library's computer rooms and there were a few students surfing the North Korean web. The webpages and websites were sophisticated, well-designed, and looked very similar to the internet. There are even various chatrooms for different topics of discussion. I asked the national librarian if the chatrooms are monitored, but he said they were not, so who knows.

Pyongyang Metro

2007-05-02T18:49:00.000-07:00

The Pyongyang Metro is the capital's subway system. The metro has 2 lines and 16 stations. The stations' names reflect slogans and phrases associated with Socialism, the Juche Idea, the reunification of the two Koreas, and North Korea's greatness. Some of the names include Glory, Torchlight (for the Juche Idea), Victory, Reunification, Triumphal Return, Liberation, Paradise, and so on. You can therefore travel from one corner to the other of the capital of this Socialist Paradise.

The following are pictures of an entrance to the Pyongyang Metro.

I'm descending the never-ending escalator to the subway system, deep into the recesses of Pyongyang. I'm about to enter the world's largest nuclear bunker.

The Pyongyang Metro also doubles as the world's largest nuclear bunker. If there is ever a nuclear war, the residents of Pyongyang will have no short-term worries as they will be safe and secure deep in the bowels of the city. It was a bit weird to be down in the metro knowing that, if a nuclear bomb were to hit at that moment, we wouldnt feel any of its disasterous effects. The creepy feeling was one of the many creepy feelings I experienced in North Korea

The Pyongang Metro is gorgeous. The metro is decorated by Socialist Realist murals that glorify and glamourize Pyongyang. Like all of North Korea's propaganda, these murals were bright, colourful, and decadent looking. The murals, being of Socialist Realism design, reminded me of birthday cake. I love it. The metro has intimidating marble archways and grand marble staircases.

The metro is lit by multicoloured, Soviet-retro, bauble chandeliers. The metro's lights themselves were stunning.

Despite the beautiful design and architecture, the Pyongyang Metro used vintage subway cars from 1960s East Germany. Like the old Soviet passenger planes of Air Koryo, the subway system relies on old Soviet machinery for transportation. Although the subway cars are old East German relics, they are still colourful as they are painted red and green. My friend Kirsty (a lawyer from London, England) and I were enthralled by the entire scene. The Socialist Realist murals (like me, she is a huge fan of the art form), the Soviet-retro bauble chandeliers, the archways, and the East German cars were all from some weird "Alice in Wonderland"-meets-hardline Communism' world. It was almost too much to take in.

The Monument to Three Charters for National Reunification

2007-05-01T21:46:00.000-07:00

The Monument to Three Charters for National Reunification greeted us upon our return to Pyongyang from our night in Kaesong and the DMZ. This arched monument is another grand edifice – every symbol and special building in North Korea can be described as grand – that straddles the Reunification Expressway. The monument is 30 metres high and covers more than 100 000 square metres.

The monument depicts two Korean women in traditional dress, with their arms stretched out trying to embrace one another and shout ‘long live reunification.’ Each woman represents the idea that the North and South are the same nation living in the same territory with the same mind, but are unfortunately divided. The upper part of the tower body depicts letters reading ‘three charters’, a map of 'one' Korea, and magnolia designs. Both sides of each platform display group sculptures based on the themes of the three principles of national reunification, the proposal for founding a federal republic, and the concept of Korean national unity. Both sides also have the slogan: “Long Live Reunified Korea.”

The following is a close-up of the North and South Korea yearning for one another and the reunification of 'one' Korea.

We were allowed to take pictures of the monument. We spent time walking along the empty highway, snapping pictures from every conceivable angle. The odd vehicle would zoom by, honking its horn for us to get out of the way, but other than that, there was no traffic. There was no fear of being run down by traffic of hit by a speeding car. We were instructed not to go out as a big group into the middle of the highway, just in small units of 2 or 3. But even still there were people grazing across the highway, underneath the monument’s outstretched hands, and chatting on the roadside.

This was a rather bright day, but it was still overcast and chilly. Most people were bundled up in their winter jackets, like every day in North Korea. I was wearing dress pants and a purple tartan sweater with a white polo collar sticking out. You’d think I was warm, but the icy North Korean wind crept right into your bones regardless of how many layers you wore.

I'm doing my part in trying to reunite the two Koreas.

Traffic in North Korea: Pyongyang, Highways, Kaesong, and Countryside

2007-05-01T20:30:00.000-07:00

Streets of Pyongyang

The traffic in Pyongyang is virtually non-existent. There are hardly any cars driving around the streets. A traffic jam would be five or six cars at a huge intersection. As you drive through the city you would rarely see a car. There would be a number of cars that would zoom past, but for a city of 3 million people, there were few of them. Because of the hydroelectric shortage, there are not any streetlights lighting the streets once night falls. The streets descend into darkness.

North Koreans rely on public transit, and there are buses and streetcars that whiz along the empty streets. These buses and streetcars are usually bursting with people. These buses and streetcars look tight due to the packed conditions, but it definitely keeps the city clean from both air and aesthetic pollution.

Traffic Ladies

Instead of traffic lights, there are traffic ladies. There are some intersections with defunct traffic lights. Since hydroelectricity is unreliable and there are rolling blackouts, the traffic lights cannot be used. Thus, the traffic ladies become the traffic lights.

Apparently the traffic ladies must be of a certain height in order to see all the traffic and pedestrians. She must also be ‘beautiful’, by whose standards I do not know. She must also be highly intelligent since her job requires a high level of concentration and precise movements. She is, after all, responsible for the lives of Pyongyang drivers and for the smooth flowing movement of the city. Her job is done in hourly shifts, so the change of guard happens each hour.

The traffic ladies stand in the middle of each intersection within a circle demarcation on the concrete painted white. They are dressed in a militaristic uniform like everyone else in DPRK. The uniform is in a cerulean blue colour with white stripes. The uniform consists of a short skirt, sharp jacket with big metal buttons, a soldier-like hat, white gloves, black shoes, sunglasses, and a long rod. The rod indicates which way the traffic must move or stop. The rod lights up in a bright red when it gets dark. The traffic ladies stand at guard in the centre of the intersections and perform their traffic movements with military precision. They are so precise that they almost resemble robots. My friend Sean (the young economist from Australia) would always try to get the traffic ladies to covertly wave to him. He managed to break the concentration of about five or six of them, and they waved back, while some others smiled at him. He was proud of himself.

My first sight of a traffic lady was on our rainy first night in DPRK. Once we entered Pyongyang, we drove through a large intersection. The rain was coming down hard and it was dark, but the flashing red-lighted rod gave her away. As we drove past her, we could make out some of her uniform underneath a see-through rain-jacket that covered her entire body. We watched her precise movements, waving the rod, graceful even in the clunky rain-jacket, guiding the non-existent traffic. It was interesting to see, I had thought these traffic ladies were Communist myths.

Highways

We drove on many highways and country roads while touring around North Korea. The highways are covered in military checkpoints, which no one is allowed to take photographs of. There were military checkpoints set up, what seemed like, every 15 minutes. There are even military checkpoints near the 'entrances' to all the cities. North Koreans do not have freedom of movement within the country. This means that you are assigned to a city or town or collective farm and you must stay there. That is where you belong. Why would you want to go anywhere else? One can't even go to another city or place for a weekend getaway. If you try to leave your designated place of residence you must have a strong and legitimate excuse, otherwise it is a punishable offence under the law.

When we didnt have to stop for military checkpoints, we spent a lot of time driving along one of the country’s major highways – the Reunification Expressway – leading from Pyongyang to the demilitarized zone (DMZ). This highway would be DPRK’s equivalent to Canada’s 401 (or the Sir John A. Macdonald highway). The highway’s name is another example of the recurring theme of Korean reunification running through every aspect of North Korean society and life. North Korea believes that once reunification happens, the highway will buzz with traffic between Pyongyang and Seoul. The Reunification Expressway is considered an impressive piece of engineering since it cuts seamlessly through mountainous terrain, with 4 wide lanes, 21 tunnels – some very long and deep within mountains – and 23 bridges. The highway – along with most construction projects – was made from military labour. Although it’s a major highway with four wide lanes, there were no vehicles – let alone traffic – on the road. We passed only a handful of cars after a total of 4 hours on the highway. It was as though it were a ‘ghost’ highway or an abandoned highway.

North Korea is a mountainous country. Outside of Pyongyang, the countryside is framed by mountains. The highway cut through many of these mountains, and we passed through about 10 of these tunnels.

We also stopped at a North Korean ‘service station’ to and from Pyongyang, about half way to the DMZ. We were able to get off our tour bus and stretch our legs. Although we could go inside the abandoned looking futuristic style service station – the restaurant was above the highway; and it was too cold inside to hang out in there – we spent most of our time playing on the empty highway. We were taking pictures, running around, playing soccer, sitting in the middle of the four lanes, without a care in the world of being killed by traffic.

The following picture is the service station that had no electricity, running water, or heat. It seemed as though it was from a scary movie. The only sign of life was a freezing cold tea room on the second level.

Kaesong

While we were visiting the town of Kaesong – a city near the Demilitarized Zone (DMZ) with a population of 300 000 – we hung out on the empty streets taking pictures and chatting in small groups. A few of us even sat down in the middle of the street without any worry of being hit by an automobile. Tim took a few pictures of me sitting right in the middle of the road, with the Kaesong skyline behind me. There was the odd car and bus that zoomed by in the distance, but there was virtually no traffic in the city.

The following are pictures from downtown Kaesong.

Socialist Realism, the official and only art form allowed in DPRK

2007-05-01T17:49:00.000-07:00

All North Korean creative works must adhere to Socialist Realist principles. Socialist Realism is a teleological-oriented style of realistic art aimed to further the goals of Socialism and Communism. The purpose is to depict and glorify the proletariat’s struggle toward socialist progress, thus elevating the common worker by presenting his or her work, life, and recreation as admirable and heroic. Socialist Realism’s ultimate goal is to educate the people in Socialist ways and beliefs. Moreover, the Juche Idea, which asserts North Korea’s cultural distinctiveness and creativity, is to be applied to all creative works. Socialist Realism also serves an added task of entrenching Kim Il Sung’s and Kim Jong Il’s powerful cult of personality.

The realism of Socialist Realism depicts the people as they ‘truly’ are, such as in everyday scenes. Since the worker is the centre of Communist ideals, his or her life is the only subject permissible for any creation of art. Images of the common worker (whether factory, agricultural, or intellectual), military, or of either Kim are popular subjects. North Korean Socialist Realist elevates North Koreans achievements in their respective fields, turns the Kims into gods, and glorifies the nation and people. All art forms – whether paintings, television shows or movies, ballets, operas, music, or propaganda – lionize North Korean life.

I actually love Socialist Realism. It is done in bright and bold technicolour, with simple lines, lovely scenes (yes, even the scenes of nuclear missiles and DPRK soldiers are beautiful in their special way), and life-like human images. The best way to describe Socialist Realism is like a decadent birthday cake. It looks like thick colourful icing on birthday cakes. It looks sweet and gooey enough to eat.

The country is festooned with Socialist Realist propaganda. Gigantic wall-size murals, billboards, and posters decorate Pyongyang. There are countless North Korean flags hanging throughout the city, either individually or style in groups of tens. The propaganda (and flags) is seen on every street, every building, and even the subway system. You cannot escape the propaganda. In fact, the propaganda takes the place of advertising. In most major cities across the world you will encounter a barrage of advertisements. In North Korea, imagine propaganda pictures and slogans rather than these advertisements. The propaganda is undoubtedly beautiful, even if some of its messages may be troubling to non-North Koreans.

I think Socialist Realist art and propaganda is gorgeous. Even if the message is chilling, the art itself is lovely. For example, the following is a poster that was hanging all over Pyongyang. It is quite pretty, but the message is ugly. It is a portrait of North Korea's nuclear weapons.

Kim Jong Il and I inspecting the DPRK army during the winter.

The Kims and I. Can you see my Socialist Realist image right beside them. Perfect for when I become the next Dear Leader of DPRK.

Propaganda decorating Pyongyang.

Socialist Realist propaganda also decorates all other cities, towns, and villages. Even the countryside has these huge murals and billboards. Even the collective farms have these propaganda items decorating the outside of their living quarters. In fact, the murals and billboards can be big enough to spot from the rice fields.

As aforementioned, every art form is in the Socialist Realist design. The North Korean television we watched was filmed and styled in this design; the Mass Games performance was choreographed in this design; all music is written with this design; and so on. I wonder if the North Koreans get sick of it or if, since that is all they know, they simply take it for granted and really enjoy it? I have a feeling they associate it with their national pride and dignity, and therefore regard it as integral to their identity.

It’s interesting to highlight some popular North Korean songs. They have wild titles and themes. They include:
“Song of General Kim Il Sung”
“Song of General Kim Jong Il”
“Song of Dear Comrade Kim Jong Il”
“Good Health to Comrade Kim Jong Il”
“Let’s Support Our Supreme Commander with Arms”
“My Youngest Daughter, Pok Sun, became an AA-Machine Gunner” (my favourite!)
“Our Socialism is Best in the World”
“Let Us Defend Socialism”
“The Army-centered Politics Brings About Happiness”
“Thank you, Marshall Kim Il Sung”
“The General is the Invincible Brilliant Commander”
“Led by the Party, We Won”
“You Know this is a Time of Emergency”
“While Performing the Revolutionary Task I Have to Do”
“Your Revolutionary Faith Must Be Firm”
“Unyielding in our Revolutionary Faith”
“How to send the Guerrillas the Needed Supplies?”
“Returning to the Bosom of the Leader”
“I’ll Dedicate my Life to my Grateful Motherland”
“I’ll Dedicate my Youth to the Country”
“Will it be Impossible to Save Comrade’s Life?”
“Let Girl Soldier Slumber Gently and Deep”
“Grateful to the Party’s Embrace”
“We’ll Defend You, the Fatherland”
“The Party is My Mother”
“Mother Party Protected Me”
“Identical to the Leader’s Image”
“Motherland Will Remember Forever”
“No Motherland without You”

I love these titles. Real Top10 hits, you know? Haha.

As for movies, North Korea is still in the midst of a hysteria over "Diary of a Schoolgirl". This movie's popularity is North Korea's equivalent of "Gone With The Wind", "Titanic", "Spiderman", and "Star Wars" all rolled into one. This movie was a blockbuster hit in the country that people today still talk about and love.

"Diary of a Schoolgirl", released in 2006, can be considered a Socialist Realism version of "Bridget Jones's Diary". "Diary of a Schoolgirl" is based around the personal journal writings of a young woman. The young woman has just experienced heartache in her life as her father has had to go far from home to do some special work for the motherland and Party. The father had no other choice, he had to fulfill his duty and responsibilites to DPRK. The young woman becomes angry with her father's leaving her and the family. She is mad, disappointed, and depressed. She blames her father of abandoning the family.

But the young woman soon comes to realize that her father did not abandon her or the family. She realizes that her father was a loyal North Korean committed to his country, the Party, and the Juche Idea. He was a noble man on a noble mission for the glory of North Korea. The young woman becomes proud of her father and his loyalty to their wonderful nation.

The Ryugyong Hotel

2007-05-01T17:16:00.000-07:00

The Ryugyong Hotel mercilessly dominates Pyongyang. It is the most prominent feature of the city’s skyline and the largest structure in the country. The hotel literally towers over Pyongyang: you can see it from every angle, every street, every vantage point inside the city. It is a shape of a massive black super-pyramid. But it is an empty shell. It is an abandoned giant, a ghost that haunts Pyongyang. Because of this, it is one of the creepiest features of Pyongyang. There are many eerie things in Pyongyang, but this hotel takes one of the top five ‘most creepy’ spots.

Because it was abandoned mid-construction, a construction crane was left at the pinnacle of the skyscraper. Apparently the crane is left in place so the North Koreans won't lose face. In other words, they can claim that the hotel's construction has only been 'temporarily suspended' as opposed to abandoned.

The Ryugyong Hotel is not visible at night. It is 105-floors, but since it has no electricity – since construction never finished and it is empty – it disappears into the blackness of a Pyongyang night. Then it reappears again at dawn, as though it were an apparition slowly manifesting in the morning fog. Official photos of Pyongyang show the building illuminated at night, but this is a result of photo manipulation.

The history of the hotel is creepy too. Construction began in 1987 as a Cold War response to a South Korean company’s completion of a huge hotel complex in Singapore. It was meant to host the 1989 World Festival of Youth and Students. The building has 3000 rooms, seven revolving restaurants, and three wings converging at a common point to form a pinnacle. The top is a wide circular structure containing eight rotating floors and six regular floors. A construction crane is still perched at the top. Construction stopped in 1992 due to problems with building methods, materials, lack of funding, hydroelectricity shortages, and the prevailing famine. It cost 2% of DPRK’s GDP, or $750 million.

Pyongyang, capital of DPRK

2007-05-01T16:36:00.000-07:00

Pyongyang is the capital city of DPRK. It is a metropolis of 3 million people. There are many skyscrapers cutting the overcast skies; towering Socialist apartment blocks: the apartments are typically white, but there are many that are coloured in pinks, purples, greens, blues, and yellows; the wide Taedong River cutting through the city centre, lined by elevated gardens; and the 105-storey Ryugyong Hotel dominating the skyline.

Although the weather was dark and gloomy, Pyongyang looked gorgeous with countless cherry blossom trees in full bloom along the wide boulevards and manicured avenues. The shocking pink of the trees is in sharp contrast to the dark grey overcast skies and chilly winds. Behind the cherry blossoms, decorating the city, are massive coloured Socialist Realist murals displaying the greatness of North Korea, the Juche Idea, and the Kims.

Pyongyang was unusually ‘busy’ because of the nonstop preparations for Kim Il Sung’s birthday – 15 April, a national holiday – and also for the Mass Games season. Many streets were packed with performers practicing their moves and dances for both events. Kim Il Sung Square - the 3rd largest square in the world - had daily practices, which were just as enthralling as the actual events themselves. There were flocks of women in bright primary colours practicing their routines for the upcoming events.

Preparations for Kim Il Sung's national birthday celebration and soiree in Kim Il Sung Square.

Kim Il Sung Square, the third largest square in the world. One of the only places where portraits of Lenin and Marx still hang.

Other pictures from downtown Pyongyang.

North Korea's Juche Idea and Juche Tower

2007-05-01T16:19:00.000-07:00

The Juche Idea

DPRK is an isolated country run on hardcore Communist principles. But DPRK is dominated by the ‘Juche Idea’, a political and social philosophy created by the deceased and still revered Kim Il Sung. The Juche Idea resembles a strong civic religion. Kim Il Sung is considered a god to North Koreans. Kim Il Sung was, and is today, referred to as the Great Leader and was crowned as Eternal President of DPRK upon his death in 1994. This means that he remains the President of DPRK, forever. Kim Il Sung’s successor – and favourite son – Kim Jong Il is only the Chairman of the DPRK and the Dear Leader, but neither President or Great Leader. Kim Jong Il and his Communist Party simply guide DPRK by the principles set out by Kim Il Sung and the Juche Idea.

The Juche Idea maintains that people must assert and defend their independence, sovereignty, and national pride through self-reliance. It is a nationalistic philosophy that asserts self-sacrifice for the benefit of society. The individual must surrender himself or herself to the group in order to become self-reliant on a personal, and more importantly, on a social level. The ultimate aim is therefore to develop and maintain self-reliance of DPRK. Unlike the Soviet Union, DPRK never intended on exporting its brand of Socialism. DPRK never had any pretensions of dominating the world or sending its Juche Idea to other countries. The Juche Idea was made specifically for the Korean people and no one else.

The following picture is of the Juche Tower and the Taedong River's massive fountains.

With the collapse of the Soviet Union and the current capitalist reformation of China and Russia, North Korea has become politically remote and militarily defensive. For instance, it is one of the most difficult countries to get a visa. Many political analysts and diplomats believed that the severe food famines of the late 1990s and early 2000s – coupled with economic crisis – would put a great strain on the Juche Idea and lead to reform, implosion, or war. Despite its recent woes, DPRK has maintained a strong and steadfast attitude towards its commitment to the Juche Idea and Socialism. Although it is plagued by internal famines, continued economic crises, and international pressures, DPRK remains a strong state that does not appear to be bending to the strains…yet.

Juche Symbols

The main symbol of the Juche Idea - the Juche Tower - as seen from my hotel room window.

The Juche Idea is associated directly with Kim Il Sung. The two enjoy a symbiotic relationship. Even though he died thirteen years ago, the respect and reverence for Kim Il Sung lives on. Kim Il Sung is ‘the’ North Korean god. The North Korean consider him as their god that gave them freedom, self-reliance, and pride. Kim Il Sung is therefore the ultimate symbol of Juche. There are special Juche towers in every city, town, village, and collective farm across North Korea. Similar to a Christian church in every corner of England or a Muslim mosque in every corner of Saudi Arabia, a Juche tower is located in every corner of North Korea. It is a long pillar made of white stone, some half a torch-flame on top (as a replica of the giant torch-flame on top of the main Juche Tower in Pyongyang, North Korea’s answer to the Eiffel Tower or CN Tower), others do not. Along the sides of the white pillar is a message written in large, red Korean letters. I can’t recall the exact message of these messages, but I’m sure they are along the lines of ‘Kim Il Sung is the hope of humankind’ or ‘Kim Il Sung is the most brilliant leader in the world.’ Next to these pillars is usually a massive wall mural with a Socialist Realist depiction of Kim Il Sung or of Kim Il Sung with Kim Jong Il.

Kim Il Sung (1912-1994), the Great Leader and Eternal President of DPRK

Juche ‘Time’

North Korea even measures its years in Juche ‘time’. Juche ‘time’ began with Kim Il Sung’s birth in 1912. This means that 1912 was Juche 1. I would have been born in Juche 67 (or 1979). Today, North Korea is in Juche 95 (or 2007).

Juche Tower

The Juche Tower – or the Tower of the Juche Idea – is the architectural embodiment of North Korea’s Juche Idea. It is another dominant feature of the Pyongyang skyline. Emily and I had a fantastic view of the Juche Tower from our hotel room’s view. The tower was particularly stunning at night with its lit torch and the entire edifice lit as though the sun was shining on it. It was quite beautiful.

The Juche Tower is a massive monument on the eastern bank of the Taedong River opposite Kim Il Sung Square. It was built to commemorate Kim Il Sung’s 70th birthday in 1982. It is 170 metres and made of white stone with seventy dividers (one for each year of Kim Il Sung’s life) and capped with a 20 metre high illuminated metal torch. The torch is lit in a strong red-orange light. At the base of the monument, facing the river, there is a 30 metre high statue consisting of three figures: one with a hammer, one with a sickle, and one with a paint brush (the Communist symbol of workers joining together as one). There are also smaller statutes, each 10 metres high, symbolizing the Juche Idea.

The following is a photo of myself and our female guide, Ong-Nim (or Miss Chae), with the Juche Tower in the background.

Despite Pyongyang’s constant rolling blackouts, the Juche Tower remains completely lit. The idea is to preserve symbolic strength, even though the people may not have any electricity or heat on any given night. That being said, around 10PM or 11PM, the Juche Tower, along with other lit-up monuments, has its lights shut off. Apparently even symbolism can’t sustain that much power usage all night.

We went to the top of the tower one windy afternoon to enjoy the views of Pyongyang. The views are indeed wonderful, with a complete panoramic view of every corner of the city. We could see the Taedong River stretching through the city, Kim Il Sung Square, the Grand People’s Study House, and the May Day Stadium. That day was the only one with sunshine and blue skies, yet still cold, so our observations were clear and crisp. The elevator took forever to get to the top, but once there, it was well worth it. I bought a mini-replica of the Juche Tower at the small shop at the base of the tower.

Yanggakdo Hotel, our hotel downtown Pyongyang

2007-05-01T14:49:00.000-07:00

The Yanggakdo Hotel is situated on the Yanggak Islet in the middle of the Taedong River in central Pyongyang. Although the hotel is downtown Pyongyang, it is effectively cut-off from the city. Being located on an island in the middle of a wide river, its location ensures zero contact with locals. Foreigners are therefore isolated from Pyongyang, even though we are surrounded by the city. The hotel is one of Pyongyang’s skyscrapers, with 47 floors.

Even though North Korea is in the midst of a severe hydroelectric shortage and Pyongyang suffers constant rolling blackouts, electricity is pumped generously into the Yanggakdo Hotel. The hotel is lit up like a light bulb constrasting with the almost complete darkness of the surrounding city. My first sight of the hotel is imprinted in my mind. We arrived into a dark and rainy Pyongyang with only a few dull lights emanating from some Socialist apartment blocks. The city was in virtual blackness, despite some of the monuments and propaganda murals lit up as though the sun was shining only on them (although those lights are shut off around 10PM at night). We drove along the banks of the Taedong River, which we could not even see due to the darkness, and were confronted by a skyscraper lit up so bright that it resembled some star in outer space. In fact, the hotel reminded me of an alien spaceship that just landed in the dark abyss, especially with the circular structure on top of the building. It was an eerie image and I had a creepy feeling as we drew closer and closer to the hotel and crossed the bridge linking the Islet to the mainland.

We were all happy to finally see some bright lights and eagerly got off the bus and hurried into the main lobby of the hotel. The lobby was a large room with marble archways and staircases, a icicle chandlier, a futuristic slanted roof with giant square lights, and large vases of flowers. The lobby was lit, but even some of its lights were shut off because the lobby was not very bright. The blue-black marble, of course, did not help with the light.

We were assigned our rooms by our guides. We could not switch or change our minds for any reason. Once we were assigned a room number and key, that was where we were to hunker down whilst staying in this hotel. I roomed with Emily, a great woman in her 20s, from Canada, and who now works as a successful strategist for Shell in England. We hit it off instantly when we met on the bus ride in from the airport, and became fast friends. I enjoyed her company very much. She is smart, well educated, easygoing, and has a wacky sense of humour. That being said, many of us on this tour hit it off quickly. We were all thrown into a crazy situation in a crazy country. The situation almost forced us to develop strong bonds within a short amount of time. I made some great friends while in North Korea, but more on them later.

The 47th floor is a revolving restaurant that provides a complete panorama of Pyongyang. It provided stunning views. I was impressed. It was kind of Commie-glam to eat our North Korean dishes up there, as we slowly revolved around the Pyongyang skyline. The restaurant, with its Soviet-retro designs and primary colours, reminded me of a set from some 1960s James Bond movie. The following is me about to enjoy lunch in the revolving restaurant with the Pyongyang skyline in the background.

The hotel also featured other restaurants, tea rooms, shops, many bars, massage parlours, sauna, pool, casino, pitch and putt golf, and lounges. I was shocked at all its features. It's a pleasure palace compared to the rest of North Korea. But it is exclusively for foriegners; 'regular' North Koreans are not allowed in. The hotel staff is all vetted to work with foreigners, and the casino and massage parlours are located deep in the recesses of the hotel with strictly only Chinese staff. North Koreans are forbidden from entering the casino area.

The hotel was rather strange, almost like a weird building from a “Doctor Who” episode. There is an old “Doctor Who” episode that takes place in a former luxury hotel ‘world’ that has turned into an eerie wasteland. This hotel reminded me of that "Doctor Who" episode. It wasn’t that the hotel was crumbling, in fact it was quite new and modern. But it was eerie and the inside was kind of creepy. For example, the hotel was basically a giant labyrinth. It could be very confusing, with long corridors and hallways jutting off here, breaking away there, appearing out of nowhere. There were a number of different ‘basements’ where many of the attractions were located. These basements were like mazes, one could get lost in. The basement-mazes were half-lit and therefore shadowy, with very low ceilings, and long stretches where there would be nothing but walls. Suddenly a room would appear, which would lead to a shop or bar or the pool or something; then the corridor would twist and turn and stretch on for a long time before there was any other sign of life. There were three of these basements, and the bottom one – which I never visited – had the Chinese-run casino and massage parlours.

The hotel’s elevators were also really creepy. There were six altogether, two of which were glass elevators overlooking the river. The elevators were creepy in that “Doctor Who” sense because they were incredibly slow and some stopped at almost every floor even though there was no one waiting on those floors! At least 90% of the hotel was unoccupied, and so the elevator would just stop at a floor that was pitch black. It took forever to get from the lobby floor to any other floor, let alone the higher levels. If you were in a rush and forgot something in your room, you had to forget about quickly jetting back up to get it. There was no time to wait for the snail’s pace of the elevators. It was frustrating.

There was a huge international controversy surrounding the hotel. It was built in the mid-1990s by a French contractor. A member of the French government convinced the government to allow the contractor to build in the internationally-isolated DPRK for financial and tourist purposes. He convinced his colleagues, and the deal received government approval. The French contractor built the skyscraper at an extreme loss because DPRK’s government refused to pay for it once it was completed. The French government therefore had to shoulder the entire cost of the project. Thus, it was Paris, not Pyongyang or some private company, which built this hotel for the North Korean capital.

Most of our tour group was placed on the 37th floor, but a few of us – including myself and my roommate and friend Emily – had a room on the 38th floor. Our room was hot. The hydroelectricity must all be directed to the Yanggakdo Hotel, because the rooms were boiling! There was a huge window with a great view of downtown Pyongyang highlighting the Juche Tower, May Day Stadium, and Kim Il Sung Square. But the window itself was creepy because there was no protective screen. Once you slid the large glass plate open, it was a steep drop down 38 floors. I don’t suffer from vertigo, but it made my legs shake. I was so impressed with our view that Emily was worried I would fall to my death trying to take the perfect picture.

We also had constant electricity, and many lamps and lights in our room. The bathroom was modern, with a strong showerhead, powerful toilet, and all the hotel amenities you could want. Our room featured a television with eight different channels (North Korea only has one channel, which, like everything else, is run and controlled by the state). Since this is a space for foreigners, foreign channels are allowed. All the channels were from either China or Russia; one channel had BBC International, but weirdly the sound was static and you could only watch the images on the screen. The only bit of news about the outside world that I could discern was that England's Prince William broke up with his long-time girlfriend Kate Middleton. That English royal scandal was my only contact with the outside world.

My hotel room’s view fascinated me. Not only was it a beautiful view, it was also shocking to see a metropolis descend into virtual darkness at nightfall. The darkness of a Pyongyang night was made all the more shocking by the silence. It is so dark that there might as well be no city there, and it is so quiet it might as well be the middle of nowhere! The only thing that could really be heard was the far-away engine of the one or two cars driving through the city, as you watched the headlights sway through the city’s blackness. Apparently you can hear a baby’s cry on certain nights, especially in the summer when people’s windows are open.

The North Korean government places all foreigners into this hotel. This creates an illusion that there are countless tourists visiting DPRK, when in reality there are less than 2000 foreigners a year in the country. Nevertheless, the illusion is impressive and the hotel was packed with foreigners. Since it was Mass Games time coupled with a special international friendship exhibition with former Eastern bloc countries, the hotel was jammed with visitors. Again, it ‘seemed’ like a lot, but in reality we would have been the only foreigners in the whole of North Korea. While we were there the hotel was crawling with Russians and many Central Asian countries. They were all performers and guests to the international friendship exhibition.

Air Koryo, the national airline of North Korea

2007-04-30T22:30:00.000-07:00

We flew on North Korea’s national airline, Air Koryo. Flying with Air Koryo was a surreal experience. The Air Koryo fleet is vintage 1960s-1970s Soviet passenger planes. Even though they have a perfect safety record and are well maintained, I was nervous traveling on old machines from the Soviet era. But any North Koreans leaving the country on official business, as well as the Western, Chinese, and Russian diplomatic staff in Pyongyang use Air Koryo, so that was something to take comfort in.

The plane’s interior was rather creepy as Socialist Realist music wafted through the fuselage. The décor was from the 1970s Soviet Union, with green carpets and green seats with tacky flowery designs. That being said, I soon discovered that North Korea was very much Soviet-retro. Air Koryo's seats aren’t comfortable because it is very cramped. Although new Western planes do not have much leg room, they have far more leg room than old Soviet planes. The flight attendants were all young North Korean women dressed in sharp red uniforms. The flight attendants were very friendly. They handed out English versions of The Pyongyang Times. They served a small lunch on our flight from Beijing to Pyongyang, which was a ham sandwich in thick bread. I don’t know if it was because I was so hungry, but the sandwich was tasty. Interestingly, during the lunch service the flight attendants changed their uniforms into a lunch uniform. It was a white blouse with purple apron and purple apron.

Every seat on our flight from Beijing was taken. It was packed with North Korean officials and our tour group’s eclectic mix of foreigners, mainly all intrigued and curious about this secretive state. Once landing at the creepy airport with a giant portrait of Kim Il Sung smiling over the rainy runway, all our passports and mobile phones were impounded. DPRK has tight immigration policies. No one complained because we all understood that North Korean isolation is part of this unique experience.

I had the unique opportunity to sit beside two North Korean men. I was in the window seat and therefore chatted more with the man in the middle, to my left. They were both very friendly. The man’s name was Ri, he was a heart surgeon in Pyongyang. We compared our cameras, he had a new digital camera from China. We chatted about our families. Ri is married with two teenage sons, his spouse is a housewife. We also chatted a bit about traveling in Asia.

I was shocked when Ri mentioned some of the places he’s traveled, including China, Russia, Malaysia, Indonesia, and Switzerland. He travels for medical conferences. North Koreans have severely restricted movement within their own country, so I was surprised at how much he’s traveled. But it is only because of his profession and for legitimate reasons of conferences. Moreover, for a North Korean of any stripe to leave the country means that they have been vetted and proven their deep commitment to DPRK. Regardless, Ri was a nice man whom I enjoyed talking with. I even had my picture taken with him, and then he had his picture taken with me on his camera.

We had a charter flight from Pyongyang to Samji Airport in the deep north of the country. The charter flight was, again, a 1970s Soviet-era passenger plane, but a smaller one than the one used from Beijing. It was a small Antonov 12. The flight attendants were dressed in the same smart red uniforms and, although we didn’t get anything to eat on either flight, they gave out the English-translations of The Pyongyang Times.

The following is a picture of me on our chartered return flight from north North Korea (a serious area of the country where few are allowed). After our previous night of our bus running out of gas along the snow and ice covered mountain roadways, and walking 5k back to our hotel in the dark surrounded by North Korean soldiers, I look a little worse for wear. At any rate, here I am settling back with a copy of the English-translation of The Pyongyang Times. Notice the main headline glorifying Kim Il Sung, the father of Socialist Korea.

First Impressions of DPRK

2007-04-30T21:56:00.000-07:00

My first impressions of North Korea were dark, gloomy, and cold. The country is exactly how you think: eerie and creepy. Our Air Koryo plane – a vintage 1970s Soviet passenger plane – landed at the Pyongyang International Airport in the early evening of 12 April. We were greeted with an intensely dark sky, icy rain, thrashing wind, and cold weather. The weather, the atmosphere, the setting was exactly what I had imagined. At first I could not believe that my imagination met the reality, but it did tenfold. I looked out of the Soviet plane’s window with a view of the desolate tarmac, angry skies, and rain hitting the concrete below.

Exiting the plane, we were greeted by the harsh weather and the North Korean military and airport staff, the latter of which might as well have been military themselves insofar as their dress, demeanors, and attitudes were concerned. We were presented with the main airport building, a massive structure designed in a fascist-Communist style: intimidating, brutal, gigantic, but impressive as a result.

At the top of the building was an imposing propaganda picture, which I soon discovered are placed everywhere in Pyongyang and across the countryside. The huge picture was of the Great Leader Kim Il Sung smiling down onto the airport tarmac. Kim Il Sung as the official host of DPRK to all foreigner visitors! Beside the picture, written in massive letters, was 'Pyongyang' to the right side and 'Pyongyang' in Korean on the left. Framed by dark skies and rain, this building was an imposing sight that looked all the more dreary and uninviting as the bad weather.

With the exception of one day, the weather remained dark and cold. And even on the exceptional day there were grey skies and cooler weather.

Ironically, one imagines DPRK to be dark, gloomy, and cold, but I did not expect the country to literally be those things. I thought that those things were just my own imagination from all the negative and scary press on DPRK. It is such an isolated, mysterious, and ‘evil’ place that is must be dark, gloomy, and cold. But the country lived up to this wild imagination. It’s as if the North Koreans staged the weather to meet Western perceptions.

My second impression of North Korea was of intense blackness. It took a couple of hours to get through North Korean security at the airport, and a lot of time hanging around the cold and empty corridors of the aforementioned building. It was shocking to look at the flight agenda in the main lobby and the only incoming flight was our Air Koryo flight from Beijing. There was no outgoing flight either. The board was empty. Additionally, the board was literally an old board where one manually places the information onto it. It was not modern or electronic like the ones you see in every other international airport.

The group of us watched the sun set and turn an already dark landscape into pitch blackness. By the time we boarded the bus the icy rain had become worse and the darkness was overwhelming. The airport had minimal lights on.

The half-hour drive into Pyongyang is imprinted on my memory. To be redundant, it was overwhelmingly dark. Pitch black. There were no highway lights or lamps along the roadway leading into the city. All I could see was the rain hitting the large bus windows as well as a few trees that were close to the bumpy roadside. At times there were some lights emanating from deep within the darkness; apparently these lights came from some buildings on the outskirts of the city. North Korea’s infamous lack of electricity was noticeable right from the outset.

The following is a picture taken from my hotel room's view on the 38th floor. We were in the centre of Pyongyang, a metropolis of 3 million people. Our view was spectacular during the day. Our view was a thrilling snapshot of the imposing Juche Tower, the May Day Stadium, Socialist Apartment blocks, skyscrapers, and the wide Taedong River. But, around ten o'clock at night, this is what Pyongyang looks like:

Marc, Through the Looking Glass

2007-04-30T10:13:00.000-07:00

My time in Democratic People’s Republic of Korea (DPRK), or North Korea, can be considered as ‘Marc, through the looking glass’. The metaphor of Lewis Carroll’s classic novel, Through the Looking Glass, helps to better illustrate my North Korean experience. In this novel, the protagonist, Alice, wonders what the world is like on the other side of a mirror. Alice is curious about that ‘other’ world, its people and places, its society and relations, and how that world compares and contrasts with her own. To her amazement, Alice is able to pass through the looking glass and experience the different, ‘other’ world for herself. My being able to enter the isolated North Korea is similar to Alice’s looking glass because I was able to pass through a bullet-proof mirror and experience an alternate society, an ‘alien’ way of life, a different world.

Why did I want to go to North Korea? This is a legitimate question. To be pretentious, let's call it my personal fact-finding mission. There was a sense of historical urgency to my desire of seeing North Korea. North Korea is the last remaining vestige of the former Soviet Empire. North Korea is the last remaining relic of the Cold War. Although there are a few other Communist countries, including China, Cuba, and Vietnam, North Korea is considered the most hardline Communist state. Even during Soviet times, North Korea was argued to be more hardline than Russia proper. I wanted to see a way of life, a political system, a state structure that is now dead elsewhere and will probably not return in our lifetimes. North Korea, as it is today, will eventually 'end' whether through war, revolution, or gradual change. Time is running out, so to be able to see the country as it exists today was of necessity.

There was also an aspect of contemporary urgency for my reasons to tour North Korea. Firstly, North Korea is one of the most isolated countries on earth, hence its moniker as 'the hermit kingdom'. Secondly, North Korea is also a part of the so-called 'axis of evil'. North Korea has been labeled a terrorist state since American President George W. Bush’s infamous 2002 speech calling the country, along with Iraq (before the U.S. invasion) and Iran, as constituting an ‘axis of evil’. It has been five years on since this controversial speech, and DPRK remains one of the two remaining members of the axis. And finally, North Korea has been particularly newsworthy due to its controversial nuclear weapons program. North Korea has recently become a global nuclear player with its own nuclear capabilities. The country tested missiles and nuclear bombs throughout 2006. This has been a serious international crisis, provoking international condemnation and the intensification of embargos. This worldwide pressure has also significantly exacerbated the hydroelectric and food crises that have hit the country.

A satellite image showing the hydroelectric shortage in North Korea. Notice the small dot of light for Pyongyang, but a massive blob for Seoul, South Korea.

So to be inside the axis of evil, to see the last Soviet state, to visit the hermit kingdom myself is something that intrigued me. Touring North Korea allowed me the once-in-a-lifetime opportunity to get inside the axis of evil and see it, feel it, experience it for myself.

I had been thinking of traveling to the so-called hermit kingdom for a couple years. In 2005, upon my return from successful PhD research in South Africa, I wanted to continue travelling and postpone my doctoral student's responsibilities. I came across a feature article on BBC World entitled 'holidays in the axis of evil' with a focus on North Korea. I was immediately interested. The article was engaging, informative, and beyond fascinating. To get a glimpse of this alien country was something a rare few get the opportunity to experience for themselves. The BBC extensively quoted the travel experts on North Korea - Koryo Tours, based in Beijing, China - and provided links to their company website. It was through Koryo Tours that my vague idea of visiting DPRK started to turn into a reality. Unfortunately I couldnt travel to North Korea in 2005, I was too busy with my PhD. But this year, 2007, I committed myself to going.

Getting into North Korea is not an easy process. Entering the country requires much paperwork, applications, even references! My dean graciously wrote a reference letter for me, affirming I was who I said I was, that I was neither a journalist nor photographer, and that I was visiting DPRK for tourism purposes only. It's not like heading off to Florida, England, or Argentina. It's not like I just decided to 'up and leave' for some foreign destination. North Korea does not work that way.

There are only a number of times when foreigners can enter the country throughout the year. North Korea closes its borders to all foreigners during the winter, between early December and mid-February. There are scheduled tour dates for the rest of the year. You have to plan accordingly. This means you have to plan far in advance to meet your allowed target date because of all the paperwork. Even if you complete all the paperwork and get your references in on time, there is absolutely no guarantee that you will be given permission to enter this reclusive state.

Foreigners are only allowed into the country for up to 10 days. Americans are only allowed in for 2 nights. Additionally, Americans are only allowed in during the Mass Games season (April/May, August-October). Americans have only been allowed into DPRK on a handful of occassions, namely 1995, 2002, 2005, and 2007. I had planned for the April Mass Games 9-day tour - which included a visit to Mount Paekdu in the remote north - and thus began the process in January. It took a few months, but I was given permission to pass through the looking glass and embark on an experience so unique as to be unparalleled.

The following is the main picture of Koryo Tours. Koryo Tours was my tour operator. Koryo Tours specializes in tourism to DPRK. It is the oldest tour operator within North Korea having been established in 1993. It is also the main source of information in many travel guides for North Korea having published two DPRK travel guidebooks and featured in Lonely Planet. It has also co-produced three award-winning BBC documentaries on North Korea. Moreover, Koryo Tours does not simply portray DPRK as holiday destination with picturesque sights. It does try to inform our tourists of the reality of North Korea. In fact, it tailors itineraries to make sure one gets as much contact with the Korean people as possible.

If anyone intends on visiting DPRK, plan through Koryo Tours.